Delidding requires that you remove your CPU from your computer. Please do this with care, and clean any thermal interface material off of your CPU before proceeding with the delid process.
Before you begin, prepare a work surface with all necessary supplies gathered.
An ideal work surface is clean, sturdy and well lit with plenty of space.
Please remember to always handle your Intel CPU with care!
OK, now you have all your supplies together it is time to De-Lid.
With the Rockit 88 disassembled and open, place your Intel CPU in the CPU tray securely, keeping the arrows aligned.
This alignment is critical because it allows the IHS to move and break the bond of the glue without contacting the Silicon die or electronics.
Using a marker, mark the corner of the IHS corresponding to the CPU arrow, this will
help the relid process later on and can be washed off with alcohol.
Take the cover of the Rockit 88, slide the pusher all the way back, and place the cover on top of the CPU tray as pictured.
Insert all thumb screws and tighten just a little *These don’t need to be tightened much, do not over tighten!
Using your fingers, tighten the pusher bolt until snug.
Take the 5 mm Allen Key included with the Rockit 88, and begin to tighten the pusher bolt
slowly. The Allen Key will get progressively difficult to turn, until a snap sound is heard.
Once you hear the snap sound, reverse the pusher bolt to relieve any tension. Pull the pusher back using the screw on top of the Rockit 88.
Undo the thumbscrews, and lift the Rockit 88 cover straight up, separating it from the CPU tray.
Hold one edge of the CPU down in the tray with one hand, and use the other hand to lift one edge of the silver colored IHS.
It will come off easily and your CPU has now been delidded.
Now that your CPU has been delidded, the old Thermal Interface Material and glue need to be cleaned from the CPU and IHS.
The Rockit 88 is a very convenient holder for the CPU while cleaning and applying TIM.
Clean the old Thermal Interface Material off the CPU and the underside of the IHS using a paper towel with alcohol. At all stages of the delid process, it is important to keep this silicon CPU die as clean as possible, leaving it free of grease, oils from your fingers and any dust until TIM is applied.
Remove the glue from the CPU with your fingernail, but be gentle. Rub the lines of glue
gently until eventually it balls up and comes off.
A credit card or similar has been known to be effective in scraping the glue off as well. It doesn't work as well for me as using my fingers. YMMV....
Patience is key!
The IHS can be cleaned in a similar manner. Use your fingernail and finger to rub the glue until it comes off. Once there is very little glue remaining, use a paper towel. It almost acts like sandpaper for the glue but doesn't harm the CPU. You're looking for a clean surface but don't worry about the stain left by the glue. It's almost impossible to remove. I found that alcohol or solvents don't help much in this process.
The included cuticle stick is handy for cleaning the glue out of the corners of the IHS.
If you're using the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, there is a gray scotchbrite pad included. It helps remove all traces of the glue and stain from the IHS.
After all glue and TIM are cleaned off the CPU and IHS, use a paper towel or cotton swab wet with alcohol to clean any remaining oils and grease off the CPU, and the underside of
the IHS. Having surfaces free of grease is important when gluing the IHS back on, so make sure fingerprints are kept to a minimum.
Now your CPU is clean and ready to be relidded. Be sure you have your glue and TIM standing by!
Grab your tape. I like to cover the edges of the CPU with the tape, leaving the CPU die exposed.
Use the wooden cuticle stick supplied with the Rockit 88 kit to press the tape up to the edge of the CPU die.
Thermal Interface Material
Prepare your TIM for application. For this build, we are using the coveted Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra. Note: Because this material is electrically conductive, it is important to insulate any electronic parts exposed under the IHS of your CPU.
Clean the CPU die again in preparation for applying the TIM. I can't stress this enough. I use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol with cotton buds or q-tips.
You should be left with an extremely clean CPU die surface with no loose strands or other foreign particles.
Apply a very small amount to the CPU die. The needle like applicator using the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra comes into it's own here.
Notice how little is needed.
Now use the included brushes to spread to a thin and smooth coating.
Once you're done and happy with the coating, begin removing the tape.
Take your time.
The preparation and precautions you've taken all help to produce a quality result.
Notice the Arrows are lined up on the CPU and Delid Tool. Now you are ready to Re-Lid!
Place the Re-Lid alignment tool on the Rockit 88 CPU tray, and ready the IHS to be lowered into place.
Any easy way to line up the Re-Lid alignment tool is by aligning the thumb screw hole at the top of the Re-Lid alignment tool to the screw hole on the top of the De-Lid base.
Align the IHS so that the mark we made earlier matches with the CPU arrow. Set one edge of the IHS on the CPU, against the Re-Lid Alignment Tool.
Lower the opposite side of the IHS into place.
Take your superglue, and apply a small drop on each corner of the IHS where it contacts the CPU. Note the location of the glue and that it was applied once the IHS was re-seated.
I have better luck when I place the glue in this area. It helps for the next time you want to delid. The glue seems to release better in this position.
Once you have the glue drops on each corner. Time to clamp it with the Spyder.
Use the 3 thumb screws from the delid tool. Place the spider on the relid guide and line up the screw holes. The spider has one leg that is a touch longer than the other two. This makes it easy to line up.
Drop the screws into the holes and tighten until they contact the Spyder. Again, they don't need to be tight, just snug.
Install the plastic bolt and gently tighten to hold the IHS in place while the glue cures.
Leave the clamp on the CPU for an hour or two just to make sure the glue has cured. I cheat and use a toothpick to check if the glue has hardened up.
Remove the Spyder by backing the big bolt out to release the pressure then unscrewing the three thumb screws.
Your CPU is now ready to be installed back onto the motherboard. Enjoy!